Deodorant vs Antiperspirant: What's the Difference?

Why I make deodorant, never antiperspirant

I studied radiotherapy at university. I held patients' hands while they undressed and climbed onto the table. I sat with them while their wigs were fitted. I walked beside them when they were unsteady on their feet. I comforted their relatives, and I hugged their partners and children. I saw and felt every step.

I'm not a doctor, and I can't tell you what causes any one person's cancer. Nobody can. And the research doesn't say your antiperspirant is the culprit - I'll come to exactly what it says. But I came away with a belief I've never shaken: our bodies are delicate, complicated systems, and I'd rather give mine fewer unknowns. I won't block a normal function, and I won't put in what I don't need to.

That's a belief, not a fact. It's what I stand by, and it's why CONCHUS exists. I can't prove it. I won't ignore it.

What it took to get it right

Believing it wasn't enough. A deodorant that doesn't work is just a nice idea.

I spent months researching. Then I spent more months developing the formula. I almost gave up more than once, because it worked, but it didn't feel right on my skin. So I kept going. After more versions than I can remember, tested by my friends and family, I had a deo cream I'd put on my own skin every day.

It's now my best selling product, and the one with the most reviews. Every order has at least one tin in it.

Customers tell me they've finally found a deodorant that works and doesn't irritate their skin, and that they've swapped out a long list of ingredients they didn't want to be using. Here's what some of them say:

Great for sensitive skin

This is the only stuff I have used which works and doesn't cause itching and irritation over time. I love that my husband loves this deo cream.

- Will R., CONCHUS customer review

I cannot recommend this deo cream highly enough. Where do I start about what I love about it? My husband does a lot of long distance walking and used to pong a bit at the end of the day. Not anymore! It's amazing how such a little bit of the deo cream can work so well. And for me the best bit of him using this deo cream is there is no sticky residue left on his teeshirts that is such a pain to get clean. He wears dark teeshirts and the sticky white mess left on the underarms by a well known brand of refillable deodorant was truly disgusting and so hard to remove. No laundry problems with Conchus!

- Annikki, CONCHUS customer review

Life changing

I've been using CONCHUS Deo Cream for years now! And I LOVE IT. I don't ever smell any more (well only of nice deo cream) it's like the product has balanced my underarms. Can't recommend it enough. Thank you Conchus.

- CONCHUS customer review

I can't promise it will be your forever deodorant. But every ingredient is on the tin, because I'd never ask you to trust something I couldn't fully show you.

What's the difference between deodorant and antiperspirant?

They sound interchangeable, and plenty of products are sold as both. But they work in completely different ways.

Antiperspirants reduce sweat. The active ingredient is an aluminium salt. On your skin it forms a plug near the top of each sweat duct, so less sweat reaches the surface. It's temporary - as your skin renews itself the plugs clear, which is why you keep reapplying (International Hyperhidrosis Society).

Deodorants deal with smell. They don't touch the sweat itself. Traditional deodorants mask odour with fragrance. Natural deodorant creams like mine neutralise it.

Why does sweat smell?

Fresh sweat barely smells of anything. The smell starts when bacteria on your skin break down sweat from your apocrine glands - the ones under your arms that switch on at puberty (nidirect).

That's why a deodorant can work without stopping you sweating. Neutralise what those bacteria produce and the smell goes - even though you're still sweating, which your body needs to do to keep you cool.

What you put under your arms also changes which bacteria live there. One small Belgian study found people's underarm bacteria stayed stable while their routine stayed the same, but shifted when they started or stopped using deodorant or antiperspirant. Antiperspirant use nudged things towards the types of bacteria linked with stronger odour (Callewaert et al., 2014). It was only nine people, so treat it as interesting rather than proof. But it's one reason a settling-in period is real for some people when they switch.

Sweating isn't the problem. It's your body doing its job. The smell is the only bit most of us want to deal with.

What does the research say about antiperspirants?

You'll find plenty of frightening claims online, so here's what the major organisations say. Cancer Research UK says there's no convincing evidence that using deodorants or antiperspirants affects breast cancer risk (reported by Full Fact). And the Alzheimer's Society has said a link between aluminium and Alzheimer's seems increasingly unlikely (Alzheimer's Society factsheet).

I'm telling you that because I'd never ask you to trust me by frightening you. I won't claim the research says something it doesn't.

But I'll never recommend an antiperspirant, and I won't make one. Sweating is your body doing its job, and I'd rather work with it than block it. That's my belief, and the choice I made. If sweating is affecting your everyday life, speak to your GP or pharmacist. That deserves proper medical advice.

What's in a natural deodorant cream?

Every deo cream I make has the same base, and every ingredient is on the label:

• Arrowroot powder and kaolin clay - soft powders that help you feel dry and comfortable
• Sodium bicarbonate, magnesium hydroxide and zinc ricinoleate - working together to neutralise odour
• Coconut oil, shea butter, mango butter and jojoba oil - to make it creamy and look after underarm skin
• Pure essential oils - for scent, except in Cloud, which has none

Bicarb is the one people ask about, because some underarms don't get on with it. I keep it low and let the magnesium hydroxide and zinc ricinoleate share the work, so the cream doesn't rely on bicarb alone. That balance is a big part of those months of testing.

How do I choose? A quick checklist

1. Decide what you actually want to deal with. Sweat is your body cooling itself. Smell is what most of us mind. A deodorant deals with the smell and lets your body do its job.
2. Read the ingredients, not the front. If you see an aluminium compound such as aluminium chlorohydrate, it's an antiperspirant, whatever the label says.
3. Check the scent. "Parfum" can cover a long list of undisclosed ingredients. Essential oils are named. Unscented should mean nothing added for scent.
4. Look at the packaging. Aerosols and plastic sticks are hard to recycle. An aluminium tin isn't.
5. Patch test anything new, and don't apply to broken or freshly irritated skin.

Which deo cream is for you?

All my deo creams share the same base - it's the scent that changes. Here are three good places to start.

Cloud - sensitive skin, pregnancy, or no scent at all

No essential oils, nothing added for scent. Suitable during pregnancy and breastfeeding. Not for you if you'd like to smell of something.

Peach Tea - soft, citrus-sweet

Bergamot, ylang ylang and a little eucalyptus. It's my own favourite, and it's suitable during pregnancy and breastfeeding. Not for you if sweet scents aren't your thing.

Fauna - herbal and earthy

Lemon, rosemary, thyme and patchouli, for anyone who doesn't want to smell floral or sweet. Not suitable during pregnancy or breastfeeding.

You can see every scent side by side in my natural deodorant cream collection, and read what customers say in the reviews on each product page.

Questions people ask

What is the difference between deodorant and antiperspirant?

An antiperspirant reduces how much you sweat, using aluminium salts that form temporary plugs in your sweat ducts. A deodorant deals with the smell by neutralising or masking the odour-causing bacteria, and doesn't stop you sweating.

Does aluminium free deodorant work?

Yes, for smell. An aluminium free deodorant doesn't stop you sweating, because it isn't designed to. It neutralises the odour, so you stay fresh while your body does its job. Many of my customers say it works, and you can read their reviews on each deo cream page.

Why do you make deodorant and not antiperspirant?

It's my belief, not a medical claim. I studied radiotherapy at university, and I came away believing I'd rather give my body fewer unknowns. Cancer Research UK says there's no convincing evidence that antiperspirants affect breast cancer risk, so this is what I believe and what I chose, not something I can prove.

Will a natural deodorant stop me sweating?

No. Sweating is your body keeping you cool, and I'd never try to stop it. A deodorant cream keeps you smelling fresh while your body sweats as normal.

Is aluminium free deodorant better for you?

I can't tell you it's safer, because the major cancer and dementia charities haven't found convincing evidence of harm from antiperspirants. I choose it because of my belief, and because I'd rather work with my body than block it.

Can I use a deo cream straight after shaving?

Yes. The shea butter, mango butter and jojoba oil make my deo creams gentle enough to use straight after shaving.

How long does a tin last?

An 80g tin lasts around 4-6 months of daily use. A 15g trial tin lasts around 2-4 weeks.

What about a big day, like a wedding or an interview?

I'd never suggest an antiperspirant, even then. Wear breathable fabrics like cotton or linen, and slip a 15g trial tin in your bag for a top-up. If sweating is a problem day to day, speak to your GP or pharmacist.

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If you've never tried a deo cream, start small. A 15g trial tin is £4.45 and lasts long enough to know - you'll find them all in Try a Trial Size. And if you're curious how I make each batch, I wrote about what small batch actually means in my studio. Got a question about switching? Leave a comment below or send me a message - I'll help you choose.

Camilla x